Home Network Setup: How I installed CAT6 Ethernet

Update: A related post regarding my network rack is available here: https://ryanfitton.co.uk/blog/home-network-setup-whats-in-my-rack-2019/

When I moved into my new house, I knew that I wanted hard-wired Ethernet networking in every home. Ethernet cables provide much faster speeds than Wi-Fi and are much more secure.

I wanted the cables to future-proof my house, so I decided to go with Cat6 cables throughout. All of the cabling, wall outlets and keystone jacks were purchased from Blackbox – I decided if I was to do this work, then I should buy quality components, I found Blackbox to have some of the best quality components I could find.

Here are some images of the cable:


In total there are 21 runs of cable with 6 POE ports:

  • Living room: 8 ports (2 ports is POE, for IP phone and exterior IP camera)
  • Under stairs cupboard: 2 ports
  • Kitchen: 2 ports (1 port is POE)
  • Office/Study: 4 ports (1 port is POE, used for IP phone)
  • Master bedroom: 2 ports
  • Attic: 2 ports (Both are POE. Connections for WiFi access point and cable to run to the garage)
  • Garage: 1 port (This port is POE and is connected to one of the ports in the attic. Within the garage, this is fed into a small patch panel and is connected to a switch and IP camera)

The installation

It was relatively easy to install the cabling, although I had to make sure everything was planned, which meant;

  • Knowing the placements of each wall outlet
  • Where to run each cable
  • If the walls were hollow to enable the cables to be routed behind

I had to lift some floorboards on the first floor and in the attic as this was the route I planned to run the cable. Because the house is fairly new (10 years old), the floorboards used long pieces of chipboard rather than the standard panel boards we usually use in the UK.

After running the cables in place, I routed them into the understairs cupboard. I found using a ‘Cable Rod’ was the easiest way to pull wires through the walls.

One important thing to do is to always number each cable run at both ends, this will make testing much easier.

Some images of the installed wall outlets (Garage: black external CAT6 Ethernet cable into small patch panel, attic: POE Ethernet outlets, Living room: 6 Ethernet outlets, Satellite and Coaxial outlets. The Virgin Media outlet connects to a Satellite cable which goes into the understairs cupboard):


Testing the installation

Each of the wall outlets had to be tested. Luckily everything worked fine and only a couple wires on the patch panel had to be re-done. I decided to use the T-568B wiring scheme as this is the industry standard.

I recommend using a testing tool and good quality KRONE punch-down tool to ensure you don’t have any issues.

What is in the rack?

I purchased a new short depth 6U rack cabinet. It wasn’t already pre-built so I spent some time building it and marked out where I wanted my equipment.

From top to bottom there is:

  • Surge protected PDU
  • Bristle plate, this is where the cables come in from the understairs patch panel
  • HP ProCurve 24 Port Gigabit Switch (1800-24G J9028B)
  • TP-Link 8 port Gigabit POE switch (TL-SG1008PE)
  • Other non-rack devices:
    • TP-Link wired Gigabit VPN router (TL-R600VPN)
    • Virgin Media Super Hub 3.0

As you can see from the photos below, the patch panel which terminates all of the wall outlet cables is not included in the rack – Instead I mounted the patch panel using a Startech 1U wall mount bracket installed into the access panel I fitted. All of the wires terminate here and then fed into the rack using additional CAT6 patch cables.

Installing the cabling, patch panel and additional patch cables:


Building the server and finishing the installation:


Some more detailed images of the server rack, and POE powered switch in garage (NETGEAR GS105PE-10000S):


Final notes

The results of this work has been shown in an increase of transfer speeds. I can now also take and receive calls in two rooms and the garage and transfer data quickly between streaming boxes, computers and the server.

The work has been tough to integrate the cables into a newly built home like mine, but if you have the opportunity to run cables in new build home then you should do so!

Follow-up posts

Since this post was published, I have made a couple of updates:

Links to purchase the products and tools I have used

If you’re interested in purchasing the same products and tools I have used, help me out by purchasing one from Amazon UK with my affiliate codes:



Thomas David
  • October 6th, 2017

How did you deal with ventilation of the server etc under the stairs (I assume its under the stairs) or in that small space? Thanks

  • October 6th, 2017

Hi Thomas, it’s not too bad. The cupboard can get a little hot, but not too uncomfortable – it never reaches more than 25 degrees, even in the British summers. Sometimes I leave the door open overnight to let the heat escape. I have thought of adding a vent on the wall to help the air circulate, but it’s not needed.

  • October 11th, 2017

Nice write-up Ryan, really appreciate the links. My house was recently stripped back to first-fix, so I took the opportunity to run dual-coax and a CAT6 to every room. I just ordered the coax multiswitch (EMP-Centauri MS5/24PIU-6) for the attic, and have still to get the PoE and non-powered ethernet switches. Can you share some details on the PoE IP phones you went with? Thanks.

  • October 11th, 2017

Hi Owen, thanks. I decided to go with a couple of Linksys SPA942. These Linksys branded models allow me to use Asterisk over SIP.

There are some identical Cisco models but these would require the firmware re-flashed to work with SIP.

The Linksys models pop-up now and again used on eBay, I’ve heard people have had good experience with Grandstream and Yealink models too.

  • December 29th, 2017

I’ve been thinking of doing the same in my house, also about 10 years old. How did you run the cables in the walls? I was going to use the old TV Aerial sockets but I think that cable was fixed in the walls so can’t pull it through.

did you have to chase out any walls or just pull it all through to the loft?

  • December 30th, 2017

Hi Luke, I had to chase the cables into one wall ok the first floor, then plastered over. The rest of the cables were placed under the floorboards, then run down the ground floor walls with a cable rod. Thanks

  • January 5th, 2018

Hi Ryan
Thanks for the detailed post very helpful.
Is this something a total DIY ameture can do ( as I’m getting the house refurbished I might try this) or does it need an electrician? If an electrician do they need to be specialised in this or is this something they do regularly?
Also how much did all the cabling and equipment cost (a breakdown would be appreciated but a overall total will do).

  • January 6th, 2018


If you’re confident at this type of thing, then yes an amateur can do it. Or, if you want an electrician, try and find one which has done this type before as the ends of the cables will need terminating to wall jacks and RJ45 plugs. A box of cat6 cable cost me around £100 and wall jacks around £3 a piece.

  • February 12th, 2018

Hi Ryan, great post and really helpful 🙂

I’m at the early stage of a new house build and plan on installing my own home network. I’m reasonably IT literate but wondered what your shopping list might look like if you were in my position? The incoming BT line will terminate in a room near to my boiler so I have space for a small rack and I’d like to run a mixed wired (POE preferred) and wireless network across the house. Already looked at a ground floor and first floor TP gigabit switch and a TP link cable router but wondered what else you had considered when you chose your parts?

  • February 13th, 2018

Hi Mike,

If you’re only running one PoE device, you might be better buying a PoE injector rather than a PoE switch, although a PoE switch will give you better flexibility in the future.

For wireless access points, I’m running this TP-Link model: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Wireless-Controller-Software-EAP225/dp/B01LRQW0GM/ and have been quite happy with it, Ubiquiti access points are also very good but slightly more expensive – my router is a separate box.

Just make sure you have some good quality solid cable for your cable runs, along with some cable punch down tools – you should be good to go.


  • June 7th, 2018

Hi Ryan
I found your I blog very informative.
We having anew build house and wanted to run cat6, our house is large 6 bedroom and 4 lounges and 2 kitchen. How much is approximate cost to have this cable installed by Electrucian in all our rooms?
How much should someone charge for this amount of work?

  • June 7th, 2018

Hi Kelly, I’m not sure about the costs, as I did the work myself. It cost me around £150 for the cable and wall plates. You might be better off getting multiple quotes from electricians, I have successfully used https://www.mybuilder.com/ in the past. Thanks.

  • July 18th, 2018

Hi Ryan

Thank you for an excellent write up…very informative.

Have you got a topology diagram showing how each item is connected to each other?…

All the best

  • July 18th, 2018

Hi Russ,

I don’t have a topology on hand. But everything goes through the main HP ProCurve switch.


Virgin Media Modem (bridge mode) > TP Link Router > HP ProCurve switch.

All wall jacks go to a patch panel which are then fed into the HP ProCurve switch.

As for POE devices, these connect from the patch panel into the TP-Link POE switch, which then connects to the HP ProCurve switch.

I’ll try and get a topology posted, it’s a good idea!


  • August 25th, 2018

Really good job you’ve done there. How much cable slack did you leave at each wall point and at the patch panel end?


  • August 26th, 2018

Thanks, there is about 12 inch of slack at the wall outlets, and a a couple of metres at the patch panel.

Richard Mullen
  • January 27th, 2019

Hi Ryan,
Good article. I’m currently renovating a 3 bedroom house, and have run Cat5e from all rooms, with around 5 running from living room TV location. (smart TV, Sky, Xbox, etc!).
All cables are running to my ‘Comms cupboard’. Did you use a patch panel purely for neatness into your Switch? I had planned to terminate directly into a switch in the cupboard. I’ll have an Openreach FttP ONT (fibre modem, as I’m sure you know!) presented in the cupboard, going into the switch and distributing to all the ethernet outlets.

  • January 27th, 2019

Hi Richard,

Thanks. Yes, I only used a patch panel as I found it easier and neater to terminate the cables into the panel, then run patch cables from the panel to the switch. Quite jealous of you being able get the fibre to the premises – the best I can get is Virgin Media’s 350Mb package :/

Robert Rosenberg
  • February 5th, 2019

Hi Ryan
Excuse my ignorance but why would you not do everything as POE?

  • February 9th, 2019

Hi Robert,

No real reason mainly because I already had bought a standard non powered switch, and felt it was easier and cheaper to just add a PoE switch to the setup. I would love to have a 48 port POE switch that I could use to peer everything, but they’re quite expensive.

  • March 21st, 2019

Hi, Just wondering how you identified the correct walls, in terms of hollowness? my understanding of interior walls is limited but I believe stud walls have solid wood running horizontally at the top and in the middle of the wall?

you also mention lifting the floorboards… was this how you routed the cable between floors?

  • March 21st, 2019

Hi Neale,

It was tricky, mainly the issue with internal stud walls is that there is a horizontal block going across. The easiest way I found was to lift the floorboards above where the stud wall is and check for to see if the path in the wall is clear by using a cable rod, using a stud detector tool helped too.

I found the cable routing was best when ran across the ceiling, then dropped downwards. For the upper floors, the cables were routed to to the ‘loft’ and then dropped down from there.

Our house is fairly new, being built in 2000. These methods really do depend on how old your house is.

This video by Lawrence Systems might be helpful too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5XePwAO4m0 – They use a couple of different methods.

  • March 21st, 2019

Thanks Ryan, its under construction as we speak – regrettably “health and safety” prevented me from getting on site while the walls were open… though the house wont have any carpets so I should have easy access to the floorboards! I’ll take a look at the video.

  • March 21st, 2019

Yes, I always think it’s silly health and safety prevents you from going on site, I can understand why they do it though. I hope it goes well for you!

  • March 29th, 2019


Looks really good, apologies in advance however have you got a tools required to do this such as a drill, what drill bits you used, crimping tool for terminating the patch panel etc ??

Also any links for the items you purchased from black box regards to the wall mountable data points / patch panel or any thing else


  • March 29th, 2019

Hi Shane, thanks.

I used a punch-down and crimping too, this set includes them both along with some cable testers which are handy: https://amzn.to/2FLef80

For drill bits it really depended on what I was drilling into, mainly wood bits and plasterboard saw.

The cable from Blackbox I used is here, https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/fi/1235/11408/GigaTrue-CAT6-bulk-cable-UTP-550MHz-solid-PVC/, wallplates here: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/fi/1250/13210/LJ6C-Adapters,Face-Plates-and-Back-Boxes/ and keystones: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/fi/1250/12024/GigaTrue2-UTP-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-110-Punchdown-Type/. The Blackbox products are quite expensive, but really good quality.

The patch panel was just a simple 1U version rated for Cat 6 from eBay/Amazon – there are loads out there.

  • May 1st, 2019

I just tweeted you – i have some questions about the best way to wire up my new build home – For me the best place to terminate all of my cables is in the garage but the telephone point is going to be sited in the living room. So what are my options? I have asked for a 6 jack port to be added behind the tv in the living room – one of the ports i have been told can be used as uplink cable. However networks are not my forte but happy to learn. Any advice you can offer?

  • May 2nd, 2019


You could run a telephone extension nto the garage and have your modem/router with the rest of your equipment. Or keep the modem/router where it is at the moment and connect an ethernet cable from the back of the drive into one of your 6 ethernet points. Then inside the garage, connect all the ethernet cables into a network switch.

Lord Junior
  • May 7th, 2019

Hi Ryan

Thanks for the post. Really really helpful.

I’ve just bought a new home (70s built) and we are redesigning / renovating the house with some structural changes.

As the house has been gutted and down to structural form I want to take advantage of the stage it’s in now and install Ethernet ports and POEs all over the home to each room so I can install POE security camera in each room as well as take advantage of cabled connections rather WiFi across the home.

Was wondering if you had ever considered doing this for other consumers if you would be paid? Willing to discuss further if you are interested and explain the plan.

  • May 7th, 2019

Hi, thanks for the comment, I’m glad this post has helped. Unfortunately this was more of a DIY job, rather than something I specialise in, it’s not something I would be keen on doing as a paid service.

  • July 24th, 2019

Hi Ryan

Gonna be moving house soon and want to do something like you have but i have a few questions if you don’t mind. I’m planning on using an unmanaged switch not a POE, is the only reason you used a POE becuase you had an IP phone? also what happens if lets say you plug in a device that doesnt need POE like and xbox for example? Also if my CCTV cameras need POE can i not just purchase an injector to use with my switch? only plan on connecting Tv’s, consoles and computers to it but there are a lot. Any advice would be helpful thanks.

  • July 24th, 2019

Hi Ashley.

Yes pretty much the only reason I went with POE – I have PoE enabled phones, WiFi access points and IP cameras, so it made sense me to use this.

PoE switches are able to auto negotiate, so if you plug in a device which is not PoE enabled it will still work and only send data instead of power.

And yes, if you only have a few PoE devices it would be cheaper to use PoE injectors to power your specific devices.

  • July 26th, 2019

Hi Ryan

Thanks for the reply.

Quick few questions if you dont mind.
Did you put the superhub into modem mode or leave it in router mode?
Is it possible to leave it in router mode and connect multiple unmanaged switches to the superhub?
Is it possible to put it in modem mode and connect a switch to the superhub and then another switch to the first?



  • July 28th, 2019

Hi Ashley,

This depends on your setup. I did put my Superhun in modem mode, but only because I was using a separate router, if you’re not then leave it in the default mode. You can connect a switch directly to one of the four ports on the back of the superhub using Ethernet patch cables, then any additional switches to either the superhub’s rear ports again or to the first switch you connected The switches can be daisy chained. Hope that helps! 🙂

  • August 5th, 2019

Is there a way to combine POE Switch and the HP ProCurve into one unit? Like a 12 port option?

  • August 5th, 2019

Hi Ibrar, you could buy a switch which does only PoE which will also allow you to connect standard non-PoE devices too, or do what I have done and connect the switches together via a standard patch ethernet cable.

  • August 13th, 2019

Hi Ryan

Any suggestions on a wall mounted switch cabinet ?

Also I am still doing research as won’t be ready to do this for a couple or so years

However are you aware of any good PC case’s that will fit into a switch cabinet along with

Two 12 port Patch Panels
One 24 port Switch
PDU power surge protected mains power supply
hopefully have a little bit more space for another switch and a couple more patch panels

I am looking at building my own custom PC with a four port i350-T4 or similar NIC and installing PFSense on this – using this as my router

I was looking at one of those mini PC / small PC’s but it would annoy me having that randomly somewhere in the switch cabinet and not being able to fix it inside of the switch cabinet in the same way you would a switch or patch panels etc

  • August 13th, 2019

Hi Shane,

I have made an update post which might help you: https://ryanfitton.co.uk/blog/home-network-setup-whats-in-my-rack-2019/

Essentially, I upgraded to a larger rack. It’s slightly taller and deeper to accommodate a rack case I bought. Specifically this one here: https://www.logic-case.com/products/rackmount-chassis/3u/3u-short-depth-chassis-w-3-x-525-drive-bays-sc-34390/ – it was the shortest depth case I could find.

The only reason why I picked the Mini PC is that it offered a good performance to price ratio and was fanless. If I had the extra space and wasn’t bothered about power usage then I’d use a standard 1U device.

Living in the UK means electric prices aren’t super cheap. I’m currently drawing about 120 watts which equates to around d £10 a month based on the devices in the rack running 24/7.

Gerald Clark
  • August 13th, 2019


Great job. I wanted to just wire a lead into my new extension. Is the switch essential, or do you think I could just run cable, with a socket on each end and plug one end directly into my BT router, computer in extension into the other end?

  • August 13th, 2019

Hi Gerald, thanks. Yes just using a RJ45 connector on either end would work just fine.

If you’re running the cable externally, make sure you buy outdoor rated cable as the coating on the cable will protect the sheath from UV light and should prevent the cable from degrading through years of sunlight.

And if you’re not crimping your own connectors, place some masking tape around the connector to prevent damage when feeding the cable through the wall.

Peter t
  • November 13th, 2019

Hi, I am currently renovating my home and have all the ceiling plasterboard off and walls stripped back and I want to eventually get virgin media fibre broadband but know they will only terminate the inside of your home but I want to put the virgin hub in a small room under the stairs where I will have my switch and patch panel which every room will be cable into via cat6a.

So I would like to know how have you brought the cable in from the white virgin box on your wall to the virgin hub?

I was thinking to have a coaxial faceplate which the virgin white box is cable to and the other faceplate will terminate under the stairs which I can connect another cable from there to the virgin hub, does this sound feasible and if so what type of faceplate will I need for both ends if I go for this option.

Do you think Virgin media will accept this solution?

  • November 14th, 2019

Hi Peter,

I bought a long piece of coax and crimped my own connectors to it, then connected one piece to the white Virgin Media box, and the other into the supplied router. The cable runs up through the walls and ceiling into a cupboard where I keep my equipment.

I’ve never had an issue, but never told Virgin was adding a long coax cable. If I was to have an issue and required an engineer to call out, I would simply disconnect my cable and connect the router near the Virgin faceplate with their supplied short cable.

Hopefully this helps you. The highest package I’ve had is 100Mb, the speed has always been reached when running over the longer cable. My cable is similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/WHITE-VIRGIN-MEDIA-BROADBAND-EXTENSION/dp/B0074RZ1TC/ref=asc_df_B0074RZ1TC/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=326651087168&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5918983187669462990&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046330&hvtargid=pla-699704364225&psc=1

  • March 7th, 2020

Hi. I live in old 1930s house, I’m thinking putting patch panel and switch in the loft.

Did you use brush plate for a lot of cables to go through for patch panel? If not, how did you do it?

  • March 7th, 2020

Hi Shahid,

In my setup, the patch panel is in a rack in a cupboard under the stairs. I rushed plastic trunking from the ceiling to get the cables to the patch panel.

The rest of my cables are run through the walls.


Chris P
  • March 28th, 2020

Hi Ryan, I stumbled across your blog and I have a question for you!

I have a Virgin Superhub 3 providing wireless around the house, but unfortunately it doesn’t reach everywhere, and it’s often a very poor signal if it does. The previous owners have installed CAT6 wiring with ports all over the house, so wondering how best to use them to my advantage…

Currently I’m looking to get a TP Link access point that will plug into a ethernet socket in an upstairs bedroom (and the furthest point from the router). My question is, how does the SuperHub get internet into the CAT6 wiring system, so the access point can work? Any tips/pointers for this novice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

  • March 28th, 2020

Hi Chris,

Hopefully the previous owners terminated all the Cat 6 cables into a patch panel. So you should be able to connect a patch cable into one of the four Ethernet ports on Virgin Media hub, then the other end into the cable run’s specific port on the patch panel.

Otherwise, if the Cat 6 runs are terminated with an RJ45 jack, just connect this into any of the four Ethernet ports on your Virgin hub.

Hopefully this helps!


  • May 14th, 2020

Hi Ryan,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I wanted to do the same but my house is about 90 years old, do you think it still makes sense to have an ethernet cable in the upstairs office or I should spend money on getting a better router and save the effort?

There’s actually an ethernet cable in the study which is not working and there are two telephone cables (i think), but I couldn’t figure out where they are connected from/to…


  • May 15th, 2020

Hi Yi,

I’m glad you have found my post useful. I always say, wired is best! so yes, installing an Ethernet cable would be beneficial. I’d try to install a new cable rather than using the existing ones, they will probably cause you more issues.

If you’re struggling to route the cable to the upstairs, you may be able go from inside; up an outside wall; then back into your office – just a thought, this may not be possible depending on your house.

If you are are able to route a cable, you can then always add additional ports to the upstairs by adding a network switch.

  • June 20th, 2020

Hi Ryan

I hope you are keeping well.

Excellent post and it’s nice to see informative follow up comments too.

I’m at back to brick stage on a renovation and was looking to run in cat6. Someone mentioned to me to run in external cat6 as it will last longer. Would you advise this?

Just to recap as I’m new to this. Do I simply take a cat6 cable from every room where I would have a TV or computer and send those cables back to a point in the house that my router will be at? Do I need to locate the cat6 in any other position in the house and if so where would you advise?

Could the router be at a different location and I have a cable running from the router to the group of cat6 cables as well? For example, all cat6 into the loft and then the router downstairs in the hallway?

What’s the most cat6 cables I should be running to each TV point please? Some people say 6 cables, 4, 2 and 1. The higher number have said to future proof yourself. However why would you need 4 or 6? If you only had 1 or 2 could you not then add a splitter if you required more?

Many thanks for your help and advice.


  • June 20th, 2020

Hi Paul,

Thanks for you’re comment.

Regular Cat6 cables will be fine as long as they’re not in direct sunlight.

I would find somewhere you define as a central point in the house, run all your cables there and add a network switch such as this https://amzn.to/37O59ny. Connect all your cable runs into this switch.

From where you’re having your router, run a cable from the switch to the router’s location and connect the cable into one of the router’s LAN ports.

For how many cables you should run, I’d recommend at least two in bedrooms, four in a home office and four again in living rooms. This should give you enough for TVs, Game Console, Computers and Printers. Down the line you could always add a another network switch in one of these locations to add further network ports.

  • July 12th, 2020

Hi Ryan,

Really helpful right up, you Really know your stuff.

I’m embarking on a home cctv set up and need network ports around the house.

Ideally I would have like to install a central patch panel, maybe one on each floor with each patch panel having it’s own switch and both switches connect to the single dedicated router.

BUT…. I’m wondering if there’s a simpler way.

Since I might change the Layout of the house in the coming future I was wondering if I could do without having to chase in the cables from everyroom, Rather I was wondering if I could do without the patch panel all-together and use a switch on each floor and then take connection from the switch to each room above floor level and fixed just above the skirting. Albeit very very neatly.

Secondly, if that’s a good viable option, than what is the best way to link the two switches to the router, should I daisy chain the switches or should I connect them to individual ports on the router? ( my router has 4 ports)

Lastly, in some point in the house, for example the TV point, I would need maybe 3 network connections, could I use a mini switch/ hub here instead of running three cables direct off the primary switch?

Please advise if this setup will cause any degradation of the network what the potential bottlenecks are.

Can they be mitigated with a better quality link cable and switch etc?

Thanks you for reading and I apologise for the long post. I’d really appreciate your advice.

Many thanks in advance.

  • July 14th, 2020

Hi Ali,

Thanks for the comment. It seems you have already done some good research for your project already.

For overall neatness, I think the patch panel would be best – but as you mentioned, you will be able to run cables on top of your skirting directly into a switch and that would still work.

Yes, you can daisy chain these together, i.e. Main Router > Switch 1 > Switch 2. And unless you’re transferring large amounts of data across your network I don’t think your will see any degradation, anything such as web browsing will be fine.

A standard 1GB network switch will be suitable for a family environment. If you’re wanting something more powerful then a 10GB switch would be better, but you will also need 10GB network cards to benefit from the extra speeds.

Stewart Challis
  • August 24th, 2020

Look at the Pass though bar you have attached to the roof truss I assume in the attic or the garage – Where did you get the white support for this and what is it called? Could not see it linked on your very good write-up!

I live in a relatively new build house and am looking at pulling through Cat-6 replacing the redundant TV Antenna Coax outputs with network ports. They all go to the loft so would need to have a small rack in the loft but think a passthrough bar like you have would be the answer.

  • August 24th, 2020

Hi Stewart, thanks for your comment.

This is the small patch panel is used, yes it is in a garage.

This is what I used, it’s only cat 5e though https://ebay.us/nEJjON

  • December 28th, 2020

Hi Ryan,

I have a question – Did you use the keystone jacks on the patch panel and the sockets? It seems to be better from a maintenance standpoint to use keystone jacks on the patch panel.

I have a new build I should be moving into soon, that hasn’t got carpet/flooring installed so I am hoping to run some Cat 6 through the house. It is a semi-detached “chalet” which means it doesn’t have a loft and the first floor flooring is long pieces of chipboard like you have.

I guess I will have to wait until I move in to check under the floorboards first, I’m hoping I don’t have to chase any walls out or replaster as it’s all brand new and has been done better than I could ever hope!

  • December 28th, 2020

Hi Joe, thanks for your comment.

Yes, I’ve used keystones in the wall outlets. But not for the patch panel, the wiring for this is punched-down instead.

I’m hoping to move properties in the next few years, so a keystone patch panel is something I will be trying next time.

  • January 8th, 2021

Hi Ryan,
Great post, thank you for helping so many of us!

Would really appreciate if you wouldn’t mind giving us some advise please.

We are just in the middle of renovating our newly purchased old house and forgot to research into home networking. Plasterer has already applied first coat so we need to act very quickly.
We are having Virgin Media (M500 broadband and tv) installed in two weeks so we want to future proof it and install some Cat 6 cables (and POE for cctv system) before the second coat of plaster is applied next week. The TV will be in the living room so as Virgin TV box must be, the Virgin Hub (router) ideally in the office on the first floor on opposite side of the house to the living room. The virgin TV box needs to be connected to this connector cable and to the Hub, connector cable to the isolator cable which plugs to this virgin white box on the wall. Sorry for making it complicated, it is not really 😉 We would like few cat 6 cables (in office 2, in master bedroom 1, and 1 in living room) and POE to connect to cctv system. What setting would you recommend please?

  • January 10th, 2021

Hi Dominika, thankyou for your comment.

I have looked at the installation guide for a Virgin 360 box – I’m hoping this is the same as what you will be using (https://assets.virginmedia.com/resources/pdf/TV360.pdf)

It looks like the TV box requires two connections, ethernet and coaxial. The ethernet will be connected into the router, the Coaxial connects to a splitter adapter which comes from a single cable from the White Virgin wall box.

If you’re wanting your TV box downstairs and your Virgin router in your office. You will need to run an ethernet cable and coaxial extension cable from the office to living room.

Ethernet cables for your other rooms will then need to be routed to your office where your Virgin router will reside.

I have used this coaxial cable in the past: https://amzn.to/2LDjrQQ

You would use faceplates like these in your rooms for the ethernet cables to terminate. You will need to buy a punch down tool too: https://amzn.to/35rMnS

For where the cables terminate in your office near your router, you can use the same wall plates or a patch panel (https://amzn.to/3smbVe2), either will work.

  • February 9th, 2021

Hi Ryan,

How did you get your floorboards up? I have tongue and groove chipboard that is screwed down but it looks like it can be a pain to get up without causing damage.

  • February 9th, 2021

Hi Joe,

I have those type of floor boards too, yes they are a pain.

As long as you’re able to get one up, the rest come up pretty easy. I found a slim crowbar can help, I use this https://amzn.to/3q6cC9I.

It will still damage the floorboard slightly, I had to fix mine with some wood filler. You could always replace the floorboard afterwards though, or perhaps try using a circular saw?

  • February 14th, 2021

Great write up!

Where did you get the patch panel for the garage and is it just mounted on the wood?

When routing cables thru walls did you go upstairs and fish it down insulation between rooms?

  • February 15th, 2021

Thanks! Yes the garage patch panel is just screwed to the rafters, this is similar to the one I used: https://ebay.us/nODFdC

Yes, fished them though the walls it was a bit tricky. Oh external walls, I did make some cable channels in the wall and had this plastered over, so I tried to go though as mint internal walls as possible, it was much easy.

  • April 5th, 2021

Hi Ryan,

Great write ups on your set up !
Had a quick question about your cameras and PC. How do you view yours ? I have blue iris which runs off an old HP elite desk. They have an iOS app for viewing the cams. Looking at changing this though as next month we will get getting the house networked so am on the scout now for new equipment – PC, maybe a router, Poe switch etc. Just wondered how you go about managing your PC and cams, do you have another PC in the house with a screen you use to access them ? Hope that makes sense!

  • April 5th, 2021

Hi Joe,

The server is using an enterprise Supermicro branded mother board which allows me to manage via IPMI, essentially a remote console which can be used when the server is powered down, so I don’t need to use a monitor.

For the camera system, I’m using open source software called Shinobi, they offer a web interface. https://shinobi.video/

Ryan Fitton · Blog – Home Network Setup: What's in my rack 2019
  • July 31st, 2021

[…] This is a follow on from my first post which described how I installed multiple CAT6 network cable runs in my house, view here. […]

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